Tacklebargains Fishing Tips and Advice Blog

Close Season Blues

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sat, 21 Jan 2012 00:05:00 +0000

Funny thing the 'Close Season', that time of year when the 'Dark Months' (both physical and literal) come around again and all us anglers traditionally spend the hours cleaning and checking gear; rods, lines, reels, waders, nets and clothing. Many hoping Christmas will bring a new toy or two.
Angling books read and re-read, and fly boxes replenished.

All the traditional things we do to while away the 'Winter Blues' while we sit and wait for the days to tick away until the new season finally arrives.

Aye Right.

Close season for browns maybe, but open season for rainbows (and grayling for those lucky enough to live within reasonable striking distance of them) and a change from the 'Far Flung' wild trek over the moors and peat bogs, to the more sedate stroll around well tended grassy banks, gravel footpaths of the local fishery with coffee and bacon rolls at the best of them. (And civilised toilets, it can be cold in the woods)

Nowadays 'Close Season Blues' refer to a certain colour strain of rainbow trout.

Ok not for all is the 'Artificial' style of angling found at a put and take fishery and some may choose not to venture forth as in 'Days of Youre', and others, as previously suggested, may be blessed with good accessable grayling close by. But for us lads in Scotlands North East it's away with the 'Traditional Flees' and out with the 'Okay Dokies', 'Damsels', 'Vivas', 'Apts Bloodworms' and, dare i say it 'Blobs' (along with a host of other things only fit to grace the Christmas Tree)

Dark in days and dark in nature to the traditionalist are these days of the Winter Blues, but if you've read this far then too late. Maybe i should have said at the start if you're not a fan then look away now.

'Fat flabby and not very fit,' (aye ok i really do need to go to the gym more often) is the often used description of the put and take rainbow quarry, but thankfully more often than not nowadays this isn't the case.

Moral dilemma? Chasing the artificial on my concience? Not really. Fact is i enjoy it and treat it as a wee break from my March to October wild troot chasing norm. Yes it looks like fishing but it isn't real (as quoted by old pal Bob Wyatt) but it's fishing none the less, a different style and different aspect of the sport.

Live and let live, we're all 'Brothers of the Angle' afterall are we not?

What a good quality Rainbow Trout should look like.

Article written by Allan Liddle.

In association with the fantastic Scottish Angler forum discussing all things fly fishing.

How to Get Started Coarse Fishing - Video Series

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 22:48:00 +0000

Check out our Video Series covering all Beginners Guides of Getting Started Coarse Fishing. These include Choosing the right Rod and Reel, Picking your Spot to Fish, Setting up your Tackle, and much much more.

Watch them now at Tacklebargains Facebook or alternatively on the Tacklebargains YouTube Channel

More videos will be added over the coming weeks, so keep checking us out for your number one fishing resource.

Extreme Angling in the Amazon

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 22:24:00 +0000

Not many people realize what it's all about. Mention the Amazon to anyone and most folks think of Mosquito-ridden, snake-infested bogs and swamps. It couldn't be any more different. We fish in pristine, tannin-blackwater rivers, crystal-clear, roaring whitewater rivers, big lagoons with huge trees surrounding them and with such a hugely diverse watershed, we can offer any type of fishing to anyone.

With over 2,500 documented freshwater fish species to date, quite simply, the Amazon offers the richest and most diverse, spectacular freshwater fishing anywhere in the world!

Here's a bit about some of the fish we catch:

The three-bar Cichla temensis Peacock Bass is the most well-known sportfish here and is a true adversary in every aspect. Similar to the American Largemouth Bass in shape but by no means in size, this wonderful fish will stretch your string to the limit. Even when using 80lb braided main line, they can break line just with the topwater strike! Better known for their tremendous topwater action, they are also caught on sub-surface lures and jigs and by flyfishermen also. These fish reach an impressive 30lbs with an average size of 10-15lbs. There are at least 15 Cichla Peacock species and the list grows each year. The colouration of these fish is spectacular, yet another bonus in catching them.

The all-silver Payara, being a slash and grab specialist is probably one of the fastest and acrobatic freshwater fish in the world and a big fish can easily strip off 100m of line in seconds. This silver missile is also known as the Vampire or Dracula Fish and has an impressive set of gnashers worthy of its name. Two massive sabre teeth in the bottom jaw disappear into conical nasal cavities in the top jaw. They nearly always strike fast and furiously from underneath and grab any unfortunate fish in its path. Lures, flies, livebait and even fish strips will entice this amazing predator. Average sizes for these 'Salmon-with-teeth' is 12-18lbs.

Traiarão or Wolf fish are big, dark, sinister predators that lurk in slackwater or behind rocks and in eddies in faster current waiting for any baitfish to enter its territory. They will literally blast a topwater lure like a Spook or Popper with abandon and are true dirty fighters. They live in the same waters as Peacock Bass and Payara and are caught with many similar methods. Even a 20lb fish is just huge in size with its tubular shape and large, wide fins. It is the real bully of the Amazon watersheds and grows to an impressive 40lbs.

The strange-looking, Pike-like Bicuda is a pointed-beaked, elongated fish that can reach 15lb fish and get to over 1.25m long, with a beautiful red/orange tail and a gold/silver body. They take smaller lures and flies in their serrated teeth-filled mouths with abandon and will leap and twist until finally landed.

Not to be left out of the impressive list of fish on offer, the most infamous of them all, the Piranha has to be included on our hit list. With many different species here, the largest is the Black Piranha. With big bulldog jaws filled with an impressive array of triangular razor-sharp teeth, these fish are what nightmares are made of! Although we swim all over, there are some deeper haunts we simply just stay clear of. We catch these brutes to over 9lbs! Yes, 9lbs slabs of big, muscular Black Piranha. We use these fish for cutbait strips and chunks for Catfish and other species and also cook them up for a shore lunch on a home-made wood BBQ. They are just so big and easily destroy lures. Many times we hook them using huge circle hooks and cutbaits meant for Cats of over 200lbs! Click on the Piranha video on our video section: http://www.amazon-angler.com/ to see an average-sized one!

And for those dedicated to catching Catfish or who just want to relax during the day under a tree in the shade after casting lures all day, the following Cats make up an impressive list of species too:

Pirarára or Redtails are like giant Tadpoles with bright red tails, hence the name! They are some of the strongest fish in the Amazon and can spool you in seconds. They grow to over 250lbs.

Jandia are the chicken of the water and stewed, grilled or fried, they are quite simply the best tasting fish you will ever encounter in freshwater. For a Cat, it's a pretty fish with honey-combed orange/brown body and fin markings and a perfect-sized table fish is around 20-25lbs.

Jau Cats are like the Amazonian Rottweillers on steroids. Big and ugly and marbled-coloured like the European Wels Cat and with a real mean attitude, they can also strip your reel bare in seconds. They love fast deep water and are often caught below waterfalls and cascades in water over 30ft deep. They reach over 100lbs in some rivers.

Surubim or Striped Tiger Cats are mostly pack hunters and are some of the Amazon's fastest predators and will often be caught on minnowbaits and jigs/flies. With silver/white bodies flanked with beautifully hiroglyphic markings, they are the camouflage experts of the waterworld. They are more often caught on small cutbait chunks in sandy, shallow areas and can reach over 100lbs.

The King of Kings, the massive Piraiba Catfish is the one that everyone wants to catch. Known to reach over 600lb, an average Piraiba is over 100lbs. This fish is like a shark with long whiskers! They can often be seen breaking the surface like dolphins while hounding large baitfish but are found mainly in deeper holes and sluggish water.

Another strange but impressive fish is the Pirarucu or Arapaima. This enormous-growing fish is threatened throughout the Amazon Basin. Their downfall is that they are air-breathers and give themselves away all too easily each time they break the surface to take a gulp of air and are therefore harpooned easily. Although rarely fished for as sportfish, they are spectacular fish to catch. They can reach 1.75m and 100lbs in 5 years and grow to well-over 500lbs. Targetted using cutbait, lures and flies, once hooked they will jump like a Tarpon and never give up. They are incredibly strong and muscular and even when landed they can easily give you a broken jaw or leg with a good headbutt or a slap with their huge bodies unless held properly. Although we do fish for them in Brazil, we are presently negotating to sportsfish for these beautiful creatures in a remote river system in Bolivia and only accessible by floatplane.

There is also an enormous list of 'coarse' fish to be caught here ranging from a few ounces to over 50lbs! Any angler used to 'bagging' 100lbs of fish in the UK could easily exceed this amount in a day. There is no other place that has such a variety of colourful scaled fish readily taking small baits, nuts, fruits, grain, worms, fish strips etc.

Nowhere else on this planet is there such a diversity of wildlife. It is literally all around you, everywhere you go. You can see freshwater Boto and Tucuxi Dolphins breaking the surface, Giant Amazonian Otters barking from afar as you invade their territory, Turtles laying eggs on white sandy beaches, multi-coloured birds fighting for the right to make more noise than the Amazon's army of insect at dawn and dusk. Green Parrots will shriek non-stop whenever they see you and Red and Blue Macaws are often seen and always flying in pairs, never solo. Toucans call to eachother from the tops of trees and sound like puppydogs yapping. And if you're lucky, you could even see the occasional Tapir, Capybara, Agouti or wild pigs at the water's edge and even Jaguar crossing the river. Although most Amazonian mammals are nocturnal, many can be seen during the day.
Of course there are snakes and lizards of every size, including the impressive Anaconda. All these beasts are more frightened of you than you are of them and will quietly disappear from view unless threatened. http://www.amazon-angler.com/#/wildlife/4548288164

All of our rivers and destinations are chosen with safety and care in mind. Most are either with tannin-stained blackwater or clean whitewater. There are very few biting insects if any in most places and we will NEVER fish in a Malaria zone, although it is always advisable to take Malaria prophylactic pills.

We want to open the UK and other European anglers' eyes to the spectacular and relatively unknown fishing available here. Many think it would be too expensive to attempt but we have some destinations that can suit at very reasonable prices and often last-minute deals and discounts are possible. These are all great places for both anglers and photographers alike. But I have to warn you, once tried, you'll be hooked for ever!!

Our company www.Amazon-Angler.com provides adventure-seeking anglers with exotic and adrenaline fishing for some of the fiercest adversaries in freshwater. We have specialised in the Amazon for the last 15 years and we take our small elite groups to some of the most fantastic jungle locations in Latin America. This is what fishing dreams are made of, with the most hardest-fighting, most aggressive fish on this planet.

We have a dedicated species page on our website http://www.amazon-angler.com/ which covers just a few of our target fish but the list just goes on and on. There are so many different species in the Amazon to catch and we have made it our mission to take our clients out there for the best fishing of their lives.

Steve Townson - The Fish Finder
www.Amazon-Angler.com
steve@Amazon-Angler.com
For best prices, please quote ‘tacklebargains’ when contacting Steve

How to Get Started Pike Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 21:26:00 +0000

A lot of people get fooled into thinking that pike fishing is like carp fishing, only you change the trace to wire. Not so. Generally speaking, if you are going out to catch pike, then you need gear that is made for the job. These days, most carp and pike rods are too stiff, great for casting, but not so brilliant for playing fish. Despite what you read, most pike anglers catch a lot of fish in the 5 - 14lb bracket, so you can easily outgun them.

Most pike are caught within 20 yards of the bank, be it river or lake, of course, the big lakes, lochs and loughs are a different matter, but for the moment let’s just stick to bank fishing our local waters. You’ll need an 11ft or 12ft rod that has a test curve of between 2lb and 2½ lbs. I would say 2¼lb is ideal for most situations with a through to progressive action.

Pike in the Roots - David Miller

Next you need a reel loaded with some line, either 12-15lbmonofilament or 30lb braid, go for a 3000 or 3500 sized reel with a decent drag, you may want a free-spool ‘runner’ type system although I have never used one. Don’t get caught up in thinking you need huge reels loaded with miles of line, that is for very specialised pike fishing that we may come onto in the ‘advanced’ series.

A reasonable rod pod that takes two rods is always usefull, along with some drop arm indicators. I have never used an electronic bite indicator, and don’t own one. I find they are a good excuse to not concentrating on your fishing, but if you feel the need, there are some good ones now available for reasonable amounts of money. Make sure the bobbins are big enough to be seen and heavy enough to create enough tension for good bite indication.

The business end of your pike equipment should always terminate in a wire trace of minimum 20lb breaking strain. You can make up your own, which I find very relaxing or you can buy ready made ones that are all excellent quality. Look for sized 6 or 8 trebles on your rig. These should deal with most deadbait and livebait situations. Use baits in the 6 - 9 inches size, they are perfectly adequate until you have gained experience and may want to move to more exotic and differing offerings. Good deadbaits include seabaits such as mackerel (small ones or cut in half), herrings and sardines, for freshwater look for roach, eel sections and small trout.

Once you get a run, make sure the fish is peeling off line, then wind up to the fish and strike hard, keeping the pressure on. Pike can alternate from heavy and steady pressure to savage runs where they accelerate at an alarming rate. Make sure you have your reel clutch set for this, and remember that they can often take off when they near the net, so be ready for that. Speaking of nets, a minimum of 36 inch arms for a triangular net is a must or use a round net with a minimum diameter of 24 inches.

Once you have your fish in the net, get them to your unhooking mat or long grass and unhook them using long nosed pliers or artery forceps, and you’ll probably want an unhooking glove for this. It is always wise to go with an experienced pike angler to learn how to handle them, look to join your local Pike Anglers’ Club region, there are anglers who are always willing to help you. Other than that look up www.pacgb.co.uk and you’ll find plenty of assistance of where to go, and who to contact.

Chris Leibbrandt has been an angler most of his life, at least 45 years anyway! Known primarily as a predator angler, he is a pretty consistent all-rounder fishing for anything, although river fly fishing and lure fishing are probably his biggest passions. Working in the tackle trade for twenty odd years, he has also run the Pike Anglers’ Club (PAC) and the Lure Anglers’ Society (LAS), being an Honorary life member of both. Chris is currently President of the LAS, and editor of their magazine, Chris is a published writer, designer, raconteur and wit.

Congratulations Guy!!! Monster fish on a 3 weight fly rod

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Thu, 09 Jun 2011 22:05:00 +0000

Congratulations Guy, and 11lb Brown Trout on the Crazy River 7ft 3 weight fly rod.

Hi Peter,

Recently you sold me a 7 foot 3 weight Crazy River fly rod, airflo line and a Crazy River fly fishing reel. Well I went to chalksprings in Arundel and amongst other trout caught the attached fish all 28" and 11 lbs of monster brown trout landed on 5lb fluoro and a tiny black buzzer. To say I am happy with the tackle you supplied is an understatment.

Thanks again!

Guy

How to Get Started Saltwater Fly Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 22:14:00 +0000

Mention fly fishing to most people and they will immediately conjure up images of Tweed clad anglers walking grassy banks in search of Salmon and Trout. But there is another, very different, side to fly fishing that has become very popular in recent years. Saltwater fly fishing is probably the most sporting method of catching sea fish. Although the flies used are intended to mimic small fish in most cases, rather than insects, the ethos is exactly the same. The angler must tie an artificial lure from thread, fluff and feather, which will trick the fish into taking it. Then he must present that lure to the fish, without the aid of any casting weight other than the line to which the lure is attached. If he has done his job properly and manages to present his imitation in the most natural way, the saltwater fly fisherman will be rewarded with a level of sport never experienced with more traditional sea fishing tackle. Most sea fish are hard fighting fish, but are usually hampered in their fight for freedom by heavy weights and powerful rods. On fly tackle, even the smallest fish will give a very good account of itself. Here, we are going to look at the basics of saltwater fly fishing, some of the species of fish you are likely to catch and the tackle you will need to get started.

As already mentioned, the art of fly fishing is to present imitation bait to a feeding fish in a way so natural, that it doesn’t raise the fishes suspicion. The most basic thing that the saltwater fly fisherman has to do is find out what his target species is feeding on. This is known among freshwater fly fishermen as ‘Matching the Hatch’, because they use flies that imitate the hatching insects that their target fish are feeding on. Salt water anglers also have to match the hatch by using flies that imitate the creatures that their target fish are feeding on. This could be anything from herring fry for Bass, to bread for Mullet. There are huge ranges of ready tied saltwater flies available to buy from tackle shops and dealers, but some anglers enjoy the extra challenge of tying and experimenting with their own. Whichever you choose, you will need a fly box containing a good variety of patterns. There are several ways in which you can match the hatch. Look for small fish that have been stranded on the beach whilst trying to escape predators, or use a net to catch shrimps and prawns that fish may be feeding on, and choose a fly from your box that closely resembles them in colour and size. Assuming you have chosen a good fly, the next step is getting it to the fish you are targeting.

The subject of fly casting is too vast to cover in a single article. In fact, many books have been written on the subject. Casting a fly isn’t as difficult or as complicated as many people believe, so the best advice I can give here is; read one of the many instructional books available or better still watch one of the casting tuition videos and start to practice. If you want to save time, you can book a lesson with an instructor at most Trout fisheries. Because there is no lead weight attached to the fly line to aid casting, the line itself is weighted. The lines come in varying weights to suit different situations and conditions. The salt water fly fisherman needs something that is able to cast a relatively large fly, so a #8 weight fly line is often the preferred choice. The way the line is weighted can also vary, but for most saltwater situations a weight forward line is the best one to use. You can either get a floating, sinking or intermediate line, depending on how you want to present your fly. A lot of saltwater fly fishermen prefer to use a floating line with a sinking tippet, or trace as they are better known to sea anglers. This allows to the main line to float, which makes casting easier, while the tippet sinks the fly to varying depths. You can vary the depth at which you fish by altering the length of the tippet.

As you would imagine, a normal fishing rod and reel would not be able to cast these specialist lines, so you need a dedicated fly rod. Fly rods are rated by weight to match the line you use, so for a #8 weight line, you need a #8 weight rod. A rod of this weight will be stiff and powerful enough to cast the heavy line and large fly in all but the most severe of conditions, whilst still remaining light and sporting. Something around 9ft long is an ideal length for a saltwater fly rod. You don’t need to spend a fortune on a saltwater fly reel for fishing in the UK. There are some excellent plastic and graphite composite reels available that are ideal for job and won’t break the bank. The main function of the fly reel is to hold the line. It is, in effect, just a large cotton reel! As you cast, you pull line off the reel and you retrieve by stripping the line back by hand, rather than winding it back onto the reel. Therefore, you can use your hands as a drag system if you happen to hook a very large fish. A large arbour reel is the best one to choose, because the loops that become set in the line whilst it is on the spool will be bigger and less likely to tangle as you cast.

You will need a few accessories before you venture out with your fly rod, though. Casting a fly tied to a sharp hook, backwards and forwards around your head, is a hazardous business. Serious injury could result if a few precautionary measures aren’t taken. You will need some kind of hat to protect your head and a pair of glasses to protect your eyes. Most saltwater fly fishermen opt for the baseball type caps and a pair of Polaroid sunglasses. Wearing these has added benefits, too, apart from safety. The peak of the cap shades the eyes from the sun and the Polaroids take the glare off the water, which helps them to spot fish. It is also a good idea to use a line basket. This is worn around the waist and catches the line as you strip it back in, rather than letting it heap up on the beach or in the water, where it can snag on bits of weed and debris. Some anglers make their own line baskets out of old washing up bowls, but the ready-made ones available are very good and not expensive. A pair of chest waders is also a plus when fly fishing, because wading can give you that extra bit of distance that you will sometimes need to reach feeding fish.

The list of species that can be caught on a fly is almost endless. In fact, you can catch some species of fish on a fly that you can’t catch by any other method. Most fish are predatory, so it figures that most fish will take an imitation of their favourite food – if it is presented naturally. Bass and Mullet are the two species that people automatically associate with saltwater fly fishing. Mackerel, Herring, Garfish, Flounder, Shad, Pollack and Coalfish are just a few more. Some people have even caught sharks on a fly! But whatever species you target, you will be surprised at how hard they tend to fight on a light fly rod, unhindered by heavy lead weights and terminal tackle. Even small school bass give a very good account of themselves. The same golden rule applies to saltwater fly fishing as applies to all sea angling. Learn where they fish are feeding and when, to maximise your chances of success. Being in the right place at the right time is more important than what tackle you are using or how well you cast. To present your fly as naturally as possible, use the tide to carry it to the fish whenever possible. Keep the rod tip low and experiment with retrieval rates to make the fly dart, rise and fall through the water. Nothing is more exciting than the moment when a fish hits your fly and the rod pulls round into a nice arc. Good luck and tight lines!

Fly Fishing for Pike

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 19:17:00 +0000

This pike was caught (on the fly of course) on Ballinlough, next to Lough Bane in Cavan, Ireland.

Fly fishing for pike from a float tube is great sport and let's you explore untapped waters! You don't always catch the biggest, but it close-range action:
this one hit the fly on the lift, almost between my flippers !

Tight lines,
Roland Henrion

Fishing Tackle and Tips to Help You Catch More Carp by Rob Nunn

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 21:05:00 +0000

Tips from Rob Nunn on how to choose the right Carp Fishing tackle as well as some great tips to help you catch more fish.

How to select the best Sea Fishing Bait

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sun, 03 Apr 2011 01:12:00 +0000

There are many contributing factors to successful sea angling, but the most important one is the bait you use. It doesn’t matter whether you are fishing in exactly the right spot, at the right time, on the best tides; if you haven’t got the right bait, you won’t catch. It really is that important. For the beginner, choosing and sourcing the right bait can be a bit of a nightmare. Too often, sea anglers minimise their chances of success by using the wrong bait or, even worse, poor quality bait. Here, we are going to look at some of the most popular sea baits and how best to source them. We will also look at the best ways to present the bait and, hopefully, maximise your chances of catching fish. To get any real idea of what bait to use, you have to look at what the fish you are targeting, are feeding on. That may sound obvious, but it is surprising how often that simple rule is overlooked. Of course, what the fish are feeding on will depend on a number of factors, such as time of year and conditions leading up to the day of your trip. For now, we are going to forget about artificial lures, etc, and concentrate on natural baits. Let’s start with one of the most convenient and easily sourced - fish baits.

The first thing you should know about fish baits is, never to buy it off a fishmongers slab! It may well be sold as fresh and it might be fit for human consumption but, for bait, it is all but useless. Fish on a fishmongers slab can be days old before you buy it and that simply isn’t fresh enough. For fish to be any good for bait, it has to be freshly caught and used straight away, or blast frozen very quickly after capture. This is especially so with some of the more popular sea baits, such as Mackerel, Herring and Sand eel, which are all oily fish. If you have to buy frozen bait, most tackle shops sell blast frozen, vacuum packed fish and that’s what you should go for. Although frozen fish will do the job, fresh caught fish is by far the better option. As mentioned earlier, the best way to choose what bait to use, is to think about what your target species is feeding on. Therefore, it is common that charter boat skippers will stop to feather mackerel, launce and sand eels on the way to their fishing marks. It figures that if there is an abundance of bait fish in an area, bigger fish will be feeding on them. The same can be said for beach fishing. If there are numbers of small fish close to the shore, bigger fish won’t be far away.

So, now you’ve got some decent fish bait, let’s look at how to present it properly. Mackerel is best fished in fillets, hooked once or twice through the widest end so that it hangs on the bend of the hook and flutters in the tide without spinning. A lot of anglers make the mistake of threading the fillet up the shank of the hook, which looks great in your hand, but ends up in a big ball bunched up around the bend of the hook once it hits the water. Not only is this unattractive to fish, but it often masks the point of the hook, resulting in missed bites. Herring, being a lot softer than Mackerel, is best fished in chunks. Just cut the head off and continue to slice across the fish at 1 to 2 inch intervals. The hook is then passed in one side of the back and out of the other, taking care to avoid the backbone. Again, the bait must hang on the bend of the hook leaving the point exposed. Sand Eels can be threaded along the hook shank head first. The point should be brought out through the belly, leaving it well exposed. Sand Eels are very soft and can come off during casting, so a lot of anglers whip them onto the hook shank with bait elastic. The size of hook you use for fish baits will depend on the species you are targeting and the size of the bait you are using. It is important to use a hook big enough hold the bait without the point becoming obscured or masked. There really is no need to try to hide the hook, as the fish you are targeting have never seen a hook before and, therefore, have no fear of it. As a general rule of thumb, for decent size Mackerel or Herring baits, anything from a 3/0 to 5/0 will be suitable. Avoid fine wire Aberdeen hooks as these will pull through the bait easier and will not usually be strong enough to cope with the fish you are targeting. However, the Aberdeen patterns in sizes 1 and 1/0 are ideal for fishing with Sand Eels.

When fish aren’t on the hunt for smaller fish, they are scavenging and grubbing around on the sea bed looking for other small animals to eat. Worms, although probably the most popular bait with sea anglers, are not as convenient or easy to source as fish baits. Just like fish baits, worms have to be very fresh to be of any use to us, so you either have to dig them yourself, which is a very hard and messy job, or buy them from a good tackle shop that employs a bait digger. Once you have them, they have to be used very quickly. The two types of worms that are widely used by sea anglers are the Lugworm and the Ragworm. Lugworm is mainly used in the winter for Cod and Whiting, but is can also be deadly for Bass in the right conditions. These worms are very soft and ooze juices when hooked, which makes them very attractive to the feeding fish. However, if they aren’t used quickly, they soon turn to mush and become useless for fishing. The best way to keep them is wrapped in dry newspaper, in the fridge and even then they will only keep for a few days. They are quite expensive to buy and can’t be frozen, so bear this in mind when planning your trip. The best hooks to use with Lugworms are fine wire with a long shank. This is so that the worms can be threaded along the shank to make a decent size bait, without bursting them. Sizes 1/0 to 3/0 are ideal for general fishing, but you can go down to a size 1 or 2 if you are targeting fish with small mouths, like flounders. Ragworms are much more tough and hardy than Lugworms. They are used mainly in the summer. They are excellent bait and fish are attracted to them by their movement as much as their scent. Unlike Lugworms, Ragworms can be kept for quite some time with a bit of care. Place them in trays with either a few centimetres of fresh sea water, sea peat or newspaper dampened with sea water. They must be kept cool, but not too cold, and can last for up to two weeks. Like Lugworms, they can’t be frozen. You can thread Ragworms up the shank of a hook, in which case, use the same hooks as you would use for Lugworms, or just hook them through the head, so that they can wriggle and swim. If you head hook them, you need to use a smaller hook so that the weight of the hook doesn’t restrict their movement. Some people have had great success using carp hooks.

Crabs are the staple diet of many species of fish. It should come as no surprise, then, that they are a favourite bait among sea anglers and one of most successful, too. By far, the best crabs to use are those that are just in the process of shedding their old shell to make way for a new one, or moulting. These are known as peeler crabs. Under the old shell is a brand new soft skin that will gradually harden into a new shell. While they are peeling, and for a short time afterwards, these crabs become very immobile. They sit under rocks and blankets of weed, hiding from predators whilst they are in their vulnerable state. Fish know when the crabs are moulting and will come foraging for them amongst the rocks and weed. Good sea anglers take advantage of this by going to fish the same areas, armed with peeler crab bait. You can either collect your own crabs by looking for them in the spring, among rocks and weed, or buy them from good tackle shops. Be warned, though, they are very expensive to buy! Peelers can be kept for up to a week in trays of bladder wrack weed, given a light spray of sea water a few times a day. You need to mount them on a wide gape hook to avoid masking the point and there are several ways to hook them. The best way is to remove the hard shell, leaving the soft skin exposed, then pass the hook point through a leg socket, through the back and out through another leg socket. They can be whipped onto the hook shank with bait elastic if you are going to cast them any distance. Once the crabs have shed their old shell, they are known as soft backs. Soft back crabs are also an excellent bait, but they don’t last as well as peelers. Therefore, you can’t usually buy soft backs and have to collect your own. They are mounted on the hook in the same way as peelers. Within a few days, the soft shell starts to harden and the crabs become crispy. They can still be used in this state, but they aren’t as good as peelers or softbacks. Once the shells are hard, they become as good as useless for bait, although you can sometimes catch Smoothounds and Wrasse on hard back crabs.

Perhaps the most versatile of all sea baits, is squid. It is cheap, easily sourced and can be kept in the freezer until needed. In recent years, Squid has grown in popularity among sea anglers and, as more and more anglers are starting to use it, it is accounting for ever increasing numbers of fish. It’s is so versatile that you can use anything from multiple squid on a multi-hook rig for monster Cod, to a thin sliver or single tentacle for small flat fish such as Dabs. There are several different types of Squid on the market and some are better than others. The best way to source it is through a fish merchant, where you can buy it in bulk. Ask the fish merchant for the same squid as the local commercial long-liners are buying. The bulk blocks of frozen squid can be semi defrosted and split into smaller packets, so you just have to take a packet out of the freezer when you want to go fishing. Once you have taken a packet of squid from the freezer and it has completely thawed out, it should not be re-frozen. I can’t think of a single species of sea fish that will not take squid and it can be used throughout the year. For bigger species of fish, such as Cod and Bass, it is best to use whole squid as bait. You must use big hooks to avoid masking the point. To hold the bait in position and stop the squid from bunching up on the bend of the hook, it is best to attach a second hook higher up the trace. This is known as a pennel rig. For smaller fish, you can cut thin, long slices of squid and mount them on small hooks in the same way as you would a fillet of Mackerel so that they flutter in the tide. Slivers of squid can also be used to tip off worm baited hooks.

If you follow the basic guidelines set out here, you will soon be well on the way to becoming a successful sea anglers. You won’t be wasting time and effort by fishing with ineffective bait and will save yourself a lot of frustration. With good bait, you know that if there are fish in the area, you will catch them. With bad bait, you’ll never know whether there were fish in front of you or not. Good luck and tight lines.

Hugh's Big Fish Fight

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Thu, 24 Mar 2011 23:33:00 +0000

Around half of the fish caught by fishermen in the North Sea are unnecessarily thrown back into the ocean dead.

The problem is that in a mixed fishery where many different fish live together, fishermen cannot control the species that they catch.

Fishing for one species often means catching another, and if people don’t want them or fishermen are not allowed to land them, the only option is to throw them overboard. The vast majority of these discarded fish will die.
Because discards are not monitored, it is difficult to know exactly how many fish are being thrown away. The EU estimates that in the North Sea, discards are between 40% and 60% of the total catch. Many of these fish are species that have fallen out of fashion: we can help to prevent their discard just by rediscovering our taste for them.
Others are prime cod, haddock, plaice and other popular food species that are “over-quota”. The quota system is intended to protect fish stocks by setting limits on how many fish of a certain species should be caught.

Fishermen are not allowed to land any over-quota fish; if they accidentally catch them – which they can’t help but do - there is no choice but to throw them overboard before they reach the docks.

Feeder Rod Fishing - Top Tip by Des Taylor

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:11:00 +0000

How to Sort Feeder Rod Tips by Strength - Fishing Tips by Des Taylor

Des Taylor shows a handy tip of how to find out which of your Feeder Tips is Heaviest, Lightest, or somewhere in between.

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How to Get Started Estuary Fishing for Beginners

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Mon, 07 Feb 2011 02:04:00 +0000

Anyone who is just starting out in sea fishing should not overlook the huge potential and many opportunities that estuary fishing presents. Often, especially for the beginner, fishing estuaries is more productive and less daunting than fishing in the open sea. By their nature, estuaries support very rich and diverse marine eco systems. The wide variety of marine creatures living in them, like worms, crabs, shrimps and fry, provide an abundant food supply for fish that visit them. But perhaps the most attractive thing about estuary fishing is the number of different species of fish available and the variety of methods that can be used to catch them. Here, we will look at the basics of estuary fishing, some of the fishing methods you can use and what you can expect to catch.

The thing to remember when fishing an estuary is to use your eyes. There are many clues that will help you catch fish, if you know what to look for. If you arrive at the estuary when the tide is out, you will see many features that will attract fish when the water starts to flood over them. Sand bars and gullies will be uncovered, as well as shellfish beds and patches of weed and rough ground. You may see small channels, through which the tide will flood over mud flats, etc. These are all features that fish will explore, foraging for food, on the incoming tide. By putting your bait in the right place, rather than just casting randomly, you will be significantly increasing your chances of success.

If you watch the tide flood, you will see even more clues, especially in the summer months. Mullet and Bass like foraging in shallow water and are often seen very close to the water’s edge in water that is barely deep enough to cover their backs. Watch these fish following the tide in and you will soon build up a picture of where they will be at any given state of the tide. Flocks of seagulls and terns dipping into the water are a good visual indication that there are feeding Bass in the area.

Another thing to look out for, are channels in saltmarsh that drain into the main river as the tide ebbs. Saltmarsh provides an ideal habitat for many small marine creatures and many of them get swept away by the ebbing tide. The fish in the estuary know this and position themselves to take advantage of the easy meals being brought to them. Putting your bait in such places can be very productive.

The most basic and popular method of fishing estuaries is legering, which is casting a lead weight to anchor a baited hook to the bottom. Because casting long distances is rarely necessary, you can use quite light tackle. A lot of tackle manufactures make specialist estuary rods, although they may sometimes be marketed as Bass rods, or ‘Flattie’ rods. They are, basically, just lightweight beachcasters of around 11ft in length and capable of casting 2 to 4 ounce lead weights and a decent size bait. A lot of coarse anglers use their carp rods for estuary fishing and they are often a good choice because of their versatility.

Although you can use a light multiplier for estuary fishing, a good fixed spool reel is the ideal tool because, like the carp rod, it is very versatile and can be used for a variety of methods. Just make sure you get a good quality reel that has a good drag system and is resistant to salt water corrosion. It should be capable of holding a couple of hundred yards of 12lb to 15lb line.

Because estuaries are full of weed, which drifts up and down the length of the river on the tide, you will need something to hold your rod up high to keep as much line out of the water as possible. You can use the old fashioned sand spike type rod rest, but a good beach tripod is a far better choice because you can use them on rocky and hard ground, such as sea walls, and they are lighter and easier to carry.

Terminal tackle is best carried in small tackle boxes in a rucksack, as you will sometimes have to be quite mobile when fishing estuaries. The rucksack can be hung under the tripod to keep it out of the mud, etc. The species you can typically expect to catch whilst legering during the summer months are Bass, Eels and a variety of flatfish, although in some estuaries you can catch other species, such as dogfish and rays. During the winter, there can be some fantastic sport to be had with Flounders and the deeper stretches of some estuaries will often hold Whiting and Codling.

Of all the fish that can be found in estuaries, perhaps the most common is the Mullet. Almost every river in the country will hold Mullet from spring through to autumn. They are very easy to spot because they spend a lot of their time swimming just under the surface, but they can be notoriously difficult to catch! They rarely fall to heavy legering tactics and traditional sea baits. To be successful, the estuary angler has to approach them like they would a coarse fish. In fact, a lot of coarse anglers make the transition from fresh to salt water, initially, in pursuit of Mullet. This is because coarse tackle and tactics lend themselves perfectly to catching this hard fighting fish.

By far, the most popular method is float fishing. A match rod of 12ft is ideal, matched with a fixed spool reel loaded with anything between 2lb and 6lb line. The lighter you can fish, the greater your chances of success, but Mullet can grow quite big and they fight very hard, so you can’t go too light or you will get smashed up. One of the best baits to use for Mullet is bread. Buy a couple of loaves of sliced bread, mash one up in a bucket with some water to use as ground bait and keep another one for hook bait and loose feed. Sometimes, the Mullet will only take tiny pieces of bread, so you have to match your hook size accordingly. It is not unusual to have to use a size 16 freshwater hook but whatever size they are, the hooks must be very sharp. This is because, contrary to popular belief, Mullet have very tough, rubbery lips.

Perhaps the most popular species of fish found in estuaries, is the Bass. These powerful, sporting fish can be caught by a variety of methods, (including leger and float fishing), but the most exciting way to catch them is spinning. This is done by casting and retrieving a lure which mimics a wounded fish. Bass are ferocious predators and a large part of their diet is made up of small fish. When they are feeding, they will chase and attack anything that resembles a fish, including your lure!

There are many different types of lure that are suitable for catching Bass, from plastic plugs and rubber eels to more traditional metals spoons and spinners. Some anglers spend a fortune on the latest ‘must have’ lures, but most of the time it is an unnecessary expense. Being in the right place, at the right time, is far more important than the type of lure you are using. If you find yourself in an area where bass are feeding on small baitfish, it won’t matter what lure you are using – if it moves, they will attack it!

In fact, some of the cheapest lures on the market are also the most successful. The Toby and Krill type spoons, for example, are deadly. Again, using your eyes is the way to learn where and when to find feeding Bass. When they are feeding on baitfish, you will often see swirls or splashes on the surface. Diving birds also give clues as they pick off fish that have been driven up to the surface by marauding Bass. These feeding spells can last for as little as 10 or 15 minutes, so if you’re not in the right place, at exactly the right time, you will miss all the action. Thankfully, though, Bass are very much creatures of habit and once you learn where they will be feeding at certain stages of the tide, they become very predictable.

As fishing different features at various stages of the tide will involve quite a bit of walking and you will be carrying or holding the rod for the whole session, a lightweight purpose built spinning rod is ideal. It needs to be around 9ft in length and capable of casting lures from as little as 5 grams, up to 40 grams. There are many on the market to choose from, including some excellent multi piece and telescopic travel rods. The best reel to use is a good quality fixed spool reel loaded with line no heavier than 10lb breaking strain. If you invest in a good reel with a couple of spare spools loaded with different breaking strain line, it could be used for all your estuary fishing, not just spinning.

Hopefully, there is enough information here to motivate you to give it a go. Anglers who don’t bother with estuary fishing are missing out on some excellent sport. But apart from that, by fishing estuaries, you will learn a lot about fish, their feeding habits and tides that will stand you in good stead in any sea fishing situation. Tight lines!

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Catching Pike on the Fly

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 07 Jan 2011 00:55:00 +0000

To Lure a Killer is the new DVD from Hywel Morgan, where he joins up with professional predator angler Ant Glascoe Jr to go head to head in their fishing styles. Watch the excitement as Hywel Catches Pike on the Fly while Ant uses his usual rock and roll style to bring them in. They then swap kit and try to get to grips with each others fishing styles!

Champion fly fisherman Hywel Morgan and professional pike angler Anthony Glascoe Jr. team up to tackle the waters of the Lake District and Northamptonshire in search of an underwater killer - the mighty pike. Will Hywel land his first ever pike on his trusty fly or the unfamiliar lure? Will Anthony give up his bucket of lures for a couple of flies? Full of hints and tips for both methods including setting up, casting out and reeling 'em in, which angler will be successful, and which method is best To Lure A Killer?

Buy it now

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How to get started Perch Fishing for Beginners

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sun, 19 Dec 2010 00:06:00 +0000

You can’t buy a better perch fishing rod than a John Wilson Rovex Avon/Quiver, there’s a reason this is Britain’s best ever selling fishing rod, because it is so versatile and excellent value for money! Use the Avon top, the other options are great for a lot of other species. The Avon rod is just right at 1¼lb test curve, ideal for both rivers and stillwaters.

I am like a lot of other anglers, my first ever fish, some 46 years ago was a tiny little stripey, obligingly gobbling up the maggot on my rather unsophisticated tackle. That perch changed my life, I became an angler that autumn day down at the mist covered Roman Villa lake. Whilst we all appreciate a bite, let’s look at bigger perch than that little chap.

Big perch can get caught on maggots, but if you consistently want the big ’uns, you’ll need to be using worms, livebaits or lures. The new found prevalence of the American monster, the signal crayfish have certainly done a lot for the sizes of perch in the last 10 - 15 years. Many more fish over 3lb or even 4lb are now being caught. If you can find a small lake or pond where perch are the only predators, then you can have some fun!

A reasonable sized reel loaded with some line, with 5 - 8lb monofilament will do the job, it sounds a bit strong, but with the excellent line you can get these days, why not err on the side of caution? I would use a 2500 or 3000 sized reel that won’t unbalance the rod, after all this is about enjoying yourself, not dragging fish up the bank.

There are a number of ways to fish your baits, the simple legered lobworm is a killer, but a float fished or float paternostered live minnow or gudgeon liphooked on a single size 4 hook is about as exciting as it gets. Fish all the areas you’d expect a marauding predator to be, by sunken trees and structure, near reed beds, slacks and eddies in rivers. Use big enough bite indicators to get good bite indication but not too big and heavy as big perch, can be easily spooked by heavy tackle or line resistance.

Try and keep your fishing mobile, looking for the fish, not expecting them to come calling on you. So, there’s no need to camp out with rod pods and all that paraphernalia, just a couple of bank sticks and a roving approach will see you put a bait in front of more fish. Naturally if you are convinced that a huge sergeant-major perch is holed up in a snaggy swim, then sit it out, but in general, keep moving. Naturally, all of the above methods can also catch you specimen sized chub too, so be prepared!

A decent perch will put up a spirited and dogged fight on this outfit, there’s nothing quite like seeing a big pair of red pectoral fins appear as you play a big perch to the net. Talking of nets, you’ll have figured out that I am a fan of big round nets (you can get bigger fish in them) those with ½ to ¾inch mesh are ideal for both river and stillwater and around 18 to 20 inches diameter is perfect.

Big perch have pretty sharp gill covers and of course a spiny dorsal fin but once you have the fish held firmly, then these are not of great concern, bigger fish are always so much easier to unhook too! As with any other fish, get them unhooked and back in the water as soon as you can, if you’re looking for a trophy shot, then get the fish in a keepnet or sack whilst you get your camera sorted out. Like most predators, they tend to be quite fragile, despite their looks, so handle with care and get them back to fight another day.

How to Get Started Shore Fishing for Beginners

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 00:06:00 +0000

Most people who take up sea fishing start by fishing from the shore, as opposed to fishing from a boat. Shore fishing can take many forms and, here, we are going to look at the most basic. Legering is a method of fishing which involves anchoring a rig with baited hook, (or hooks), to the seabed with a lead weight. To be successful shore angler, you have to be able to put your bait where the fish are and that often involves casting to some sort of feature, such as a gully or a patch of rough ground. The nature of the area you fish will dictate what sort of tackle you will require, depending on the distance you need to cast, whether the ground is clean or rough and how strong the tide is, etc.

Open sand and shingle beaches are, more often than not, devoid of obvious features other than subtle ridges and gullies that have been shaped by the weather and tide. These can be anything from 30 to 150 metres from the shore so, to fish this type of beach, you need tackle that is capable of casting enough weight to hold your bait in position, a fair distance. There is no need to spend a fortune on high performance rods. In fact, a lot of the time, these rods will be too stiff and powerful for those just starting out and will hinder rather than help. Ideally, you should look for a mid-range rod of 12 to 13ft, with a medium action and capable of casting 4 to 6 ounces. There are plenty of good quality rods available which won’t break the bank and are more than capable of casting the required distances.

Because you may be required to cast quite a long way, the lighter the line you use, the better. This is because heavier, thicker diameter line creates more air resistance when casting and will cut down your distances. Thinner diameter lines will also create less drag in the tide and will enable you to use lighter leads to hold bottom. As most open beaches are relatively snag free, you can get away with using quite light line and 12 to 15lb breaking strain is ideal. To prevent the thin line from breaking under the strain of casting heavy lead weights, a shock leader is required. This is a length of heavier line takes all the strain of the cast. The general rule of thumb for shock leaders is 10lb breaking strain for every ounce of weight. So if you are casting a 4 ounce weight, you need a 40lb shock leader and if you are casting 5 ounces, then you need a 50lb shock leader, and so on. The shock leader is tied to the end of your mainline and should be long enough to be wound four or five times around the spool of your reel, through all the rod rings and back down to the rod butt.

When it comes to reels, there are basically two options available. You can either use a fixed spool reel, or a multiplier. As the name suggests, the spool on a fixed spool reel remains stationary and the line is wound onto it by a rotating bale arm. When you cast, the bale arm is pulled back out of the way and the line peels out over the front of the spool. With a multiplier, the spool rotates in one direction to wind line on, then, when taken out of gear to cast, rotates the other way to feed line out. For a beginner, I would recommend a fixed spool reel; simply because you will spend more time actually fishing than untangling the over runs and backlash that you can sometimes get with a multiplier. Having said that, most modern multipliers have effective centrifugal and magnetic breaking systems built in, which help to minimise tangles. Whichever type of reel you choose, this is one thing that you should spend as much money on as you can afford. Cheap reels are unreliable and don’t last very long in the marine environment. Trying to save money on a reel is false economy because a good quality reel, if looked after, will last a lifetime. The reel needs to be able to hold 250 to 300 metres of 15lb line, plus the shock leader. It must have a good, smooth drag system that can be tightened and loosened off quickly and easily.

If you are going to fish from rocks, or over rough ground, you will need a slightly different set up. Deep water and fish attracting features will often be quite close in and, therefore, long casting isn’t necessary most of the time. What is needed instead, is tackle capable of retrieving fish and end tackle away from rocks and kelp before they get snagged. A longer and more powerful rod is required in these situations. The length is required so that the tip can be held high whilst retrieving line to keep the tackle clear of the bottom, and the power so the tackle can be pulled free of any minor snags. You should look for something of at least 13ft with quite a stiff tip action. As long casting isn’t necessary, (or possible with limited room), the need for a shock leader is diminished. Instead, a stronger mainline of around 30lb breaking strain can be used right through from the reel to the lead weight. The lack of a shock leader is also helpful because there is no chance of weed getting snagged on the knot, getting jammed in the rod rings and slowing down the retrieve. For this sort of fishing I would recommend a powerful multiplier with a fast retrieve and strong gears. Again, a good drag system is essential. Some of the multipliers designed for light boat fishing are ideal for rock and rough ground fishing.

Piers and jetties are very popular with people just starting out because they have so much to offer. Apart from providing easy access and a comfortable fishing platform, they also act as fish attracting and holding features. Their popularity also means they are great places to meet other sea anglers and to pick up tips and advice. Because the pier or jetty angler often has access to relatively deep water, long beach casting rods aren’t required. In fact, the structure itself is the feature that the angler should be fishing to and casting too far away from it will, in most cases, be counterproductive. There are exceptions, of course, such as the scours and bars that can sometimes be created when the tide is deflected by the structure. A rod of around 10ft in length is ideal for pier fishing. Although it can be light, it has to be quite powerful because you may have to bully a hooked fish out of, or away from, the structure. If you are dropping your bait close to the structure, there won’t be much drag on the line and you can use lighter leads of, say, 2 or 3 ounces to hold bottom. You can also do away with a shock leader and use a mainline of 15 to 20lb breaking strain straight through. (It is worth remembering that if you decide to cast away from the structure, there are often tide rips around the ends and heavier tackle altogether will be needed.) Any good quality reel that is capable of holding 150 to 200 yards of 15lb line would be suitable for pier fishing. A fixed spool will be more versatile but, as there isn’t any distance casting involved, a multiplier would be equally suitable for the beginner in this situation. You shouldn’t use the reel to winch fish up the side of the structure, though. Any fish you catch should be landed in a drop net.

Wherever you fish, make good use of local knowledge. Speak to other anglers and pop into the local tackle shop for your bait, rather than using the one near where you live. It is also a good idea to keep a Fishing Diary, so that you can work out over a period of time which tides and conditions fish the best.

Good luck and tight lines!

Article written by Steve at Tacklebargains.

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How to get started Pike Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 01:35:00 +0000

Next you need a reel loaded with some line, either 12-15lb monofilament or 30lb braid, go for a 3000 or 3500 sized reel with a decent drag, you may want a free-spool ‘runner’ type system although I have never used one. Don’t get caught up in thinking you need huge reels loaded with miles of line, that is for very specialised pike fishing that we may come onto in the ‘advanced’ series.

www.pacgb.co.uk and you’ll find plenty of assistance of where to go, and who to contact.

About the author

Learn how to fly cast with Hywel Morgan "The Complete Cast"

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 26 Nov 2010 01:28:00 +0000

How to fly cast, fly casting tuition video, fly casting lessons, fly casting instruction

“The Complete Cast” is probably the best casting tuition video to date. Hywel has certainly raised the bar as this is by far the best fly casting instruction video we have seen with loads of top training tips and instructions. Hywel starts with the basics and works through to more advanced casting techniques covering the overhead cast, single and double haul right through to the snake roll and more. You then learn how to put your new casting skills in to practice to go out and catch more fish.

If you are looking to get started, improve your casting or just add that few extra yards to your cast that have up till now been elusive this video should be at the top of your shopping list.

Buy it Now...

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How to extend a Telescopic Fishing Rod properly

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sat, 20 Nov 2010 00:32:00 +0000

Des Taylor demonstrates how to properly extend and collapse a Telescopic Fishing Rod, without damaging the fishing rod sections. This is an all too common issue expecially when fishermen are in a rush to quickly extend a Telescopic Fishing Rod.

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Maurice Broome - New Zealand Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Fri, 12 Nov 2010 01:52:00 +0000

4lb brownie caught from a float tube about one metre from lake edge in about one foot of water..Lake Otamangakau (called the big O as the name is hard to pronounce), about 35 km south west of Lake Taupo, which is in the middle of the North Island, New Zealand. Most of this man-made lake is about 2-5 metres deep and is known for trophy brownies...but hard to catch!. Nearby accommodation about NZ$30 per night - like back packers.

5lb rainbow at the Mohaka River and this river can be found from the road Napier on the north east cost to Taupo (called Napier to Taupo Highway) around the middle of the North Island, New Zealand. (nearby accommodation in shearer's quarters about NZ$25 per night)....in summer able to drive down to river's edge.4WD track over farmland.

Download Maurice's Brochure

In New Zealand we do not normally have to pay any access fee to fish water so as long as the farmer is happy we can fish most places for free except for the required license and gear costs.

If anyone is interested in further information I can be emailed at maurice.fishing@yahoo.co.nz ("fishing" is not my surname).
On an earlier trip this year float tubing to the big O, I came back with venison..but that is another story!! I am willing to assist anyone coming over at a negotiable rate, other than the one day trip.

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Bennetts of Sheffield Update

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sat, 06 Nov 2010 01:04:00 +0000

Following on from our post earlier in the week, the clearance sales planned at the store have cancelled. For latest details, please see the Bennetts of Sheffield web site.

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Team England test the new Fladen Xtra Flexx Fishing Rod

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Sat, 06 Nov 2010 00:44:00 +0000

Coming soon to Tacklebargains...

Neil Bryant and Ray Barron from Team England test the new Fladen Xtra Flexx Boat Rods. Constructed using extremely fine basalt fibres as used in the aerospace industry, giving exceptional durability, strength, enhanced fighting action, high torque and lifting power.

The most sensitive and powerful new rods that you could ever imagine!

Come on then Ray what do you think of these new Xtraflexx rods from Fladen. Just look at the bend and power in it. What do you think?

I mean, you know, I’ve got to be really honest, these rods are brand new, they’re new technology, they’re strong, they’re powerful and we’d like to say unbreakable, but that is a very dangerous thing to say, so we think they are close to unbreakable.

And you know Ray and I are standing here on the foreshore. Ok we may be pulling a couple of anchors in but bye, I wish we did have a double shot of big fish. Just look at the power, you can see it running through the rod, very sensitive on the tip and Fladen have launched a range of these to cover you for Spinning, for Bass predator fishing, and we’ve got some new put over poles and match rods as well -- So look out for the new extraflexx rods from Fladen Fishing. The rod of the future today – at today’s prices !!!

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Bennets Of Sheffield Ceases Trading

noreply@blogger.com (tacklebargains) — Wed, 03 Nov 2010 23:10:00 +0000

We would like to give people a heads up that Bennets of Sheffield has unfortunately ceased trading.

The sad news was broken to us today, and as such we are helping to spread the word and make anglers aware of the situation. If you are waiting for an order from Bennetts you can contact the liquidators at the following address:

Wilson Field
The Annexe The Manor House
260 Ecclesall Road South
Sheffield S11 9PS
Tel: 0114 235 6780

In the meantime however, there appears to be sales at the store itself each of the next two Saturdays (6th November and 13th November), so if you are around about Sheffield then there must be massive bargains to be had!

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Bait Fishing Tips to Catch More Bigger Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Richard) — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:48:00 +0000

I have been guiding overseas and in the tropics for many seasons and it still amazes me what people are prepared to put on a hook.
Fishing with bait is the most popular method of salt water fishing. But buying a block of frozen fish deemed not fit for human consumption is not going to optimise your chances of success.
The days of sticking on any old lump of bait and tossing it over the side are long past. Every now and again you might strike it big, but don’t count on it, effort and preparation is all important.
Don’t get me wrong, fish do get caught on frozen baits, especially purpose caught baitfish such as pilchards and squid, but much of the fish frozen for bait is by-catch, as tough as old boots, and is probably nearly as edible. Many people will use tougher baits because they are tough they stay on the hook longer. It stops the baits stealers.
If you are being plagued and your baits are being nibbled off before a decent fish can get hold then try bigger bait. And walk your bigger bait back down tide , below and further away from the boat , especially when fishing in shallow water , big fish don’t get to be big fish by being stupid and they will stay back from the disturbance of the boat , so drop the bait back down tide and seek out the bigger fish.
There is a simple rule for bait-fishing - the better the quality of your bait, the better the quality of the fish you are likely to catch.
Catch it there.
Bait caught on the fishing ground tends to be the baitfish your prey is chasing, and this makes your bait just that much more attractive than imported bait. Freshly killed bait still retains the oils, blood, and other attractions to your prey.
Any of the normal shoaling baitfish which can be caught at the fishing site will work and used freshly killed will be very seductive. If the size is suitable the bait can be used whole – or if too big, cut up. If cutting up these baits remember to cut across the fish at an angle from head to tail to expose as much of the flesh as possible.
If you are chasing big Snapper or Conger try a ‘butterflied’ bait. From the tail, cut up each side of the backbone, to just behind the head, then cut out the backbone behind the head. This leaves two fillets still attached to the head. Hook the bait between the eyes and fire it out. If the bait is still alive when you turn it into a butterfly, so much the better.
Fillets of freshly caught fish such as yabouy and bonefish make very attractive baits. When freshly caught the flesh is still firm, and will stay on a hook much better than when it has been frozen. Try cutting the flesh into strips, rather than cubes, this will give the bait some added movement in the water.
When using a freshly killed yabouy, take off a fillet, skin it, cut the bait into strips, and rig it with a two-hook rig, wrapping the line between the hooks around the bait strip. This bait-rig has accounted for many large snapper.
The gills of freshly caught bigger baits such as trevally, Spanish mackerel, are top baits. Push the hook through the pea-sized knurl at the top of the gills and send it down. Do not fish gills for much longer than ten minutes without a bite or hook-up, the blood will have leeched out, taking with it the reason for fish to bite.
Catch it close.
Try and keep the bait alive if you can, from the point of capture to the fishing ground. Fresh killed bait will still be attractive even if it does not match what your prey is feeding on. If you cannot keep the bait alive make sure it is kept as cool as possible maybe in a bag on the ice you are taking out to keep your catch in tip-top condition.
It is imperative to keep caught bait either alive or as cold as possible. Keeping dead baits in a container of water is a bad practice. This will actually speed up the process of raising the fish’s temperature, and turn the flesh into mush.
You can use any of the bait rigging techniques outlined above for baits caught on the way to the spot.
Ok, if you must.
Choose frozen bait using much the same judgement factors you would use if you were planning to eat the fish yourself.
Fish that has been well cared for up to and including being frozen will look better in the pack. The fish will still be bright. Any bait that looks lifeless in the pack will probably appear so under the water as well. It is essential that frozen bait should retain the oils and juices that make it attractive to our prey. Bait that looks flat in the pack has probably been left too long before freezing and it is likely that oils and juices have dissipated.
It is for this reason that you should never totally defrost frozen baits.
As bait defrosts, much of the oil and juices leak out. Look at all the oils and blood that is left in the bag at the end of the day and you will see what I mean. Keep most of the bait you have taken out for the trip as cold as possible and only take enough out to cover the next 10 minutes. Many frozen baits such as mackerel and pilchards turn into slush when defrosted and we all know how difficult it is to rig slush on a hook, and how easy it is for the pickers to rip it off. The best condition for frozen bait is a texture something like the packaging foam, firm but not solid.
It is likely that fish have very little means of detecting hot or cold, in terms of food, so bait that is still partly frozen is no problem.
I can only think of one bait that is probably best used after freezing, and that is tuna. Fresh caught tuna is very soft and it is difficult to keep it on a hook. But in saying that, tuna that is allowed to totally defrost becomes next to useless. Try and keep all baits out of the sun whilst baiting up.

What to Look For in the Bait Freezer
When you look at bait in the retailer’s freezer – and don’t buy bait till you get a look at it – look for the following key points before selecting bait:

Make sure there is no evidence of oil or blood in the bag or box. This is a sure sign that the bait has either been defrosted or frozen too slowly, and the oils and juices have leeched out.
Check that the bait has not been crushed. This can indicate either that the bait has been badly handled, or that the bait has been allowed to defrost. Crushed bait has flesh that is bruised and soft often too soft to stay on a hook. Oils and juices have been forced out of crushed bait.
Look for evidence of freezer burn. This may show up as bruising on the skin, or discolouration of the skin. This may indicate the bait has been poorly treated when freezing, or that the bait has been in the freezer for too long. Again, freezer-burned bait will be low on oils and juices.

To be successful in catching more or bigger fish
means starting at the fish’s end of the process:

The first thing that must exist is that there are fish to catch where you are fishing.
Having found fish, the next important factor is to set up a berley (ground-bait) trail that will attract and hold fish near where you bait is going to be.
That is where the bait comes into play – the better the bait, the better the fish that will be caught.

Everything else that follows up the fishing system hook, line, rod, reel, and angler is of no use unless the first three factors are in place. Bait selection and presentation is too often disregarded in the haste to get fishing.
- Richard Sheard, World Sport Fishing

Richard Sheard has spent his life hunting big fish in more than 40 countries. He started fishing at the age of six, progressed to competitive fishing, and then founded World Sport Fishing. Few are as qualified to talk about the techniques, sport and allure of big game fishing as Richard. He currently lives in the UK and spends a good part of each year abroad, fishing and shooting.

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Opening Day on the Rivers… French style!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony) — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:46:00 +0000

The fishing season starts with a bang here in our village, I provided the whimper later in the day for reasons that will become clear to the reader after the following few paragraphs.
In Champagnac-La-Riviere there is a local angling club who have what has to be the best idea for the opening of the 1st category rivers and lakes. Essentially this involves starting fishing at sunrise on the 12th March, which incidentally this year gave a high of –2 degrees at that hour, one hours fishing then off to the bar.
Now I enjoy the odd few glasses of the local grapejuice, but not normally at this hour. However with fingers like Captain Scotts and a nose akin to Rudolph, I was grateful for the glass of white wine with cassis waiting at the bar for me. Warm handshakes all round and a quick check on catches (mostly blanks, myself included) and a second glass is “obligatoire”, quickly followed by a third. The warming effect of this beverage, it has to be said, is excellent. It also has the added advantage of allowing the part of the brain which is responsible for talking in a foreign language to function more easily, although not necessarily correctly.
A table for twelve had been laid in the bar, the last supper sprang immediately to mind.
All of the food in our local bar is cooked on site, no radiation roasts here. Our first course was the most delicious French onion soup with garlic bread and although the red wine was served in glasses, it is also applied liberally to the soup too. I do not usually eat a lot for breakfast, or drink alcohol, so kept telling myself it was lunchtime as a huge steak and equally large bowl of chips arrived on the table. Custom dictates that you must drink red wine with the main course. Quelle surprise!! It is now a little after ten o’clock in the morning and my liver is expecting overtime pay. Cheese and salad followed the main course, and yes………a glass of red wine or two, just to accompany the cheese really. Trying to eat, drink and speak french with my lips partially numb and an inane smile on my face was a challenge.
Normally, I was told, we would fish again for an hour or so before returning to the bar for aperitifs, however as the outside temperature was still a balmy zero degrees the breakfast ran into lunchtime. Un Pastis ou un café? I took the sensible option. “Un grand café noir, s’il vous plait, merci.’ I said with a whimper before strolling home for a good long lie down.
- Tony Scott, Fly Fishing in France

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A Fishy Story!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony) — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:45:00 +0000

Together with two good friends, Paul and Jess, I decided to go and fish La Mordorée, an old quarry now totally transformed into a magnificent stillwater trout fishery in the heart of the Charente, just 30 mins drive from us.
I had fished this reservoir in the summer to no avail. It can be just too hot for the fish to bother playing. Talking to the owner he told me that it fishes best in autumn and spring.
So……we headed off bright and early one November morning. The colours of the surrounding trees are majestic at this time of year and it was a rather comfortable 18 degrees, hazy sun and little wind upon our arrival.
There was a good deal of surface activity visible. Just what we needed – a bout of dry fly fishing. Tackling up was undertaken with gusto as rise after rise was seen upon the water. Funny how a rise looks like a little target isn’t it?
I had been asked to give a quick refresher on casting techniques to Paul and Jess, so we headed to the waters edge. Edge is the word, the quarry is over 15 metres deep and our bank shelved steeply for about 2 metres and then dropped off into the blue.
I was teaching a change of direction technique to Paul and Jess when a beautiful 6lb+ rainbow rose to my right hand side. As I had cast to my left, this gave a marvellous opportunity to demonstrate a change of direction cast. With a deft waft of the rod and an increasing amount of adrenalin starting to run through my system, I cast to the fish.
Normally shaking hands do not produce good casts, however this time the fly, a grey wulff, landed just in the trout’s window of vision. Slurp!! And it was gone. The fly line started to disappear steadily into the depths as I let out more and more with minimal resistance for the fish. (Now, here’s a lesson to us all……….it pays to remember that 1.5lb tippet tapered leaders are superb for river fishing, but perhaps a slightly stronger breaking strain would have been preferable for a fish such as this fellow.) You’ve guessed it………”ping” and everything went slack, jaws and all.
As the group excitement died down we discussed the why’s, wherefore’s and if only’s as anglers do. Words not worthy of print were spoken in profusion, as anglers do.
This one definitely “Got away”
We fished for an hour or so up until lunchtime, enjoying many rises, takes, and subsequent losses and saw some truly tremendous fish cruising below the surface.
La Mordorée has a good head of rainbows, browns, blues and golden trout and there are black bass too. Mental note: Must catch a black bass!
The French lunch has to be observed. So we settled down at the picnic table for a traditional lunch of pate, bread, cheese and of course a small beer. Not forgetting a “pain au chocolat” for afters.
Recharged we fished on into the afternoon. The wind had gotten up a little so the surface disguised our lines and leaders admirably, whilst allowing our flies to bob around happily in the wavelets.
Paul hooked into a prowling rainbow only for the fish to decide that perhaps taking this fly was a mistake, so he spat it back at Paul, who proceeded to entertain us with a temper tantrum usually not seen after the age of around two years old. Or maybe it was more of a tribal war dance, its difficult to say when you are doubled up laughing. Onwards and upwards…………
Jess hooked into a rather nice golden trout just as he was in the process of paying the owner for our fishing. It looks impressive, but Jess was relieved of the trout and his euros, both got away.
Me…I missed a good few takes, “lack of practice” was the excuse chosen from my book of “Explanations for an empty creel”, however I finally banked a plump dinner plate sized rainbow, so my wife Sue would be delighted, if not a little surprised.
We finished the day by watching the sun begin to set over the reservoir and sipping a beer. A great day indeed.
With my thanks to Paul and Jess.
- Tony Scott, Fly Fishing in France

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